5. Emotions

My experiences in Odesa solidify my impression of the city’s inhabitants as emotional and spontaneous. They often forgo filters in their interactions, which can sometimes lead to bizarre situations.

One such instance occurs when, lost in thought, I cross the street at a red traffic light. Glancing out of the corner of my eye, I misinterpret a green object as a pedestrian crossing signal and proceed to cross. Simultaneously, a battered Lada, a common sight here, makes a right turn. Its unhurried driver gives me ample time to stop, preventing an accident. However, the driver, looking as weathered as his car, suddenly leans out the window, gesticulating wildly at the traffic light and accusing me of blindness. Certain I’m right, I point back. My mistake dawns on me in a flash - I had been looking at a wrong traffic light, on the other side of the crossing. All I can offer is a sheepish shrug and apology. The driver’s scowl instantly melts into a warm smile. He utters a friendly “He за что!” - “You’re welcome!” or “No worries!”, waves, and drives off.

Another encounter unfolds late one evening at a near-empty grocery store. The sole cashier, a woman around 45-50, stands by the register, seemingly bored. As I unload my items, the usual exchange commences: “Bag?” - “Yes, please.” - “Big or small?” - “Small.” Sensing something unusual, perhaps my lack of a loyalty card or the foreign accent coloring my limited vocabulary, she bombards me with questions. Where am I from? Why am I visiting? What do I think of Odesa? How long will I stay? Satisfied by my responses (Estonia, work, love it, at least a year), she declares Odesa the best city in Ukraine, dismissing all others. “Lviv has an old town, but that’s it. Took the train once, on the way to Poland. Didn't even bother getting off on the way back.”

She then wishes me a good evening and encourages me to return. Indeed, I return many times, but on subsequent visits, the same cashier never acknowledges me. No glance, word, or gesture, as if my memory, or the lingering foreign accent, has completely vanished from her mind.

My final example delves into Odesa’s nightlife, a term used loosely in a city with a 10 pm alcohol sales ban, mandatory closure of all major gatherings and parties, and a strict midnight curfew prohibiting outdoor activity.

My Danish friend and I find ourselves on the crowded terrace of a bustling cocktail bar, balancing our drinks on a nearby corner of a table. Suddenly, a young woman, embodying the archetypal “babe” here with her botox-filled lips, dramatic makeup, and barely-there minidress, who is sitting at the other side of the same small cocktail table with a female friend, turns to us. “Excuse me,” she addresses us in hesitant English, “you are annoying us.” Leaning in, I offer a hesitant smile, unsure if I understand her. She looks bewildered and starts checking her phone before turning to her friend and requesting clarification on the translation of the word “мешать” - “to disturb” or “annoy” in Russian.

No further need for a smile arises as I coldly inform her in Russian that no, we are not annoying her and if she thinks otherwise, it’s her personal problem. The women continue muttering amongst themselves in Russian, but we opt to ignore them. Eventually, my friend, reaching his boiling point, launches into a lengthy English tirade on the importance of language skills and basic courtesy. While the vocabulary of the girls listening is limited, I’m sure they understand the tone.

These women, however, are not the only ones in the bar who display a perplexing blend of insecurity and arrogance barely concealed by any semblance of courtesy. In fact, a few minutes later, a gentleman from a neighboring table decides to express his discomfort with our proximity to his wife, despite the bar’s packed terrace and the general close quarters. Finding the situation utterly absurd, my friend and I simply exchange grins, opting to avoid engaging further with this unreasonable individual. Instead, we decide a change of scenery is in order.

While the described situations are certainly odd and unconventional, Odesa evenings also offer encounters with interesting characters who are happy to meet and chat with foreigners - or with just anybody. Thankfully, such unpleasant experiences haven’t been repeated. Perhaps due to our decision to frequent different bars.